In January of 2023 we took a few local trips around Aguadilla, Lares, Cabo Rojo, and more. In Lares we even stopped at the spot that we had at one point in time nearly bought! What nostalgia that brought up. So many moments of waiting, wishing and hoping for a life in Puerto Rico. And now we live it every day, albeit in a different area of Puerto Rico. 2023 marks a full 10 years since we made the giant leap to move our life completely. Interesting the twists and turns of fate and choice.
A cool spot in Aguadilla
Standing in front of what we used to call “Awilda’s” Place. The farm we nearly bought in Lares
Hacienda Rullan in Lares
Charco La Valentina in Lares
Rincon!
A new ice cream place in Rincon by the Marina called “Wabbles”
Now that we have settled back into our life and routine and mowed all the property after the summer rains and sun caused everything to grow like crazy, I have some time to collect my thoughts on my first trip back to Colorado since we moved here. I can’t believe it had been nearly 6 years since I had been back. In some ways it was very easy to step back in to our way of life, and in other ways I feel I have been profoundly changed by my experience and life here in Puerto Rico. Here are some things I noticed about the differences. Of course everything that has a “pro” also comes with a “con” -that’s just the way life is.
Mofongo in Puerto Rico
Food
One of the most obvious differences from Colorado to Puerto Rico is the food. In Puerto Rico there aren’t a whole lot of choices especially on “la isla” outside of the metro area. Most people eat at home and if you go out, it’s for “picadero” or just light meals. There are of course some restaurants around, it’s just not such a big deal as it is in Colorado. The main meat choice is almost always chicken with pork coming in 2nd and then beef 3rd. The main starch is usually plantain.
Mexican Food -Chicken Chimichanga!
In Colorado there are a lot of choices, and in our area of Northern Colorado, it’s mostly Mexican food and beef. I hadn’t had a real steak if you don’t count the occasional churrasco in nearly these 6 years! Every time I went out to eat I found myself wanting to say “Buen Provecho” to other people eating and had to bite my tongue. I was also amazed at the restaurant service and how often they would fill up our water glasses and rarely if ever asked if we wanted bottle water like they do so often in Puerto Rico. Also, I liked how the Mexican food restaurants always kept bringing back more and more free chips and salsa as we waited for the entrees to arrive. No wonder we got so chubby in Colorado!
Free unlimited water refills and chips and salsa at all Mexican restaurants in Colorado!
We ate sooo much food on this trip. I had forgotten how much food we don’t get in Puerto Rico. I enjoyed Pho, snow/king crab legs, peaches, a huge variety of hot peppers, sweet corn, Arbys, Dairy Queen, pizza with toppings like artichoke hearts, Colorado craft beers, spicy Mexican food, salad bars and more that I hadn’t eaten in a LOOONG time. I had forgotten how much going out to eat is such a part of the culture in Colorado. It’s just something to do! And there is so much to eat! Serving sizes are too big in Puerto Rico (maybe double what they should be), but in Colorado, they are about 3 times too big! Part of the trip was to eat as many foods as we could that we haven’t had in a long time…and in the course of the trip I think we achieved that!
Pho and Fajitas
Hot peppers and sweet corn!
Dairy Queen Ice Cream Cake and Peanut Buster Parfait!! Mmm
Arby’s and Waffles!
Soo much food everywhere! Tons of produce and varieties of things like Trisquits!
I haven’t had cinnamon bears forever! And Roma pizza -our old hangout!
Steakhouses and Brunch
Colorado Rockies
Climate/Landscape
The next most striking thing was the climate. I had forgotten how dry, dry, dry it is. And everyone was talking about how unusually humid it was. We had to buy eye drops and skin lotion. My hair went from soft waves to super flat and staticky just like that. We also had a bit of altitude adjustments. The roads are SO flat and straight and well maintained it was crazy. Where are the potholes?? There are so few trees in Colorado. Even in the summer when it is beautiful and green it is still such a muted color compared to the vibrancy of Puerto Rico. And COLD! I haven’t truly been cold in nearly 6 years and yet I actually woke up shivering one night while we were there.I noticed that chips/crackers would go stale in Colorado if you leave a package out whereas in Puerto Rico they get moist and weird. There was also an odd scarcity of bugs and sounds everywhere. It was cool to see some different wildlife like squirrels and deer, but overall, it was so QUIET compared with the loudness of nature and the party-vibe of the island. It was also weird seeing so many old things in such great condition. Things that if they were on the island would rust out, break down and become dust in 2 years were still like brand new after 20-50 years in storage. No rust, no mold, no corrosion. It was amazing!
Colorado Flag
Language/Culture
It took me a minute to reset my brain to English as the default language. When we needed something in a store for instance I had the tendency to want to ask in Spanish. If someone sneezed I wanted to say “Salud” instead of “Bless You.” Flags were Colorado and American instead of Puerto Rican. Even when I talked with my Spanish-speaking friends, it was different to hear the Mexican Spanish again and I had to change back some of my vocabulary. People in both Colorado and Puerto Rico are super friendly, but it’s different. In Colorado there is an assumption of everyone following the rules and therefore everyone will get along. In Puerto Rico, there is an assumption that there are some rules that just don’t make sense, so we will all break them together and get along (waving people into traffic for instance when the roads are congested). In lines in Colorado hardly anyone spoke to each other, whereas in a fila in Puerto Rico you stand there so long, you know the other person’s life history! Hardly anyone commented on Aeden, whereas in Puerto Rico babies are so loved. Everywhere we go we hear “AY QUE LINDO” “QUE COLORA’O!” and “Dios Lo Bendiga/Cuide.” Also I have forgotten how many HUGE trucks and SUVs there are in Colorado. There is no way these vehicles could maneuver the tiny roads of the island. People in Colorado also dress much differently. We saw a lot of cowboy hats and boots!
Huge trucks in Colorado
Versus a tiny truck with a goat in the front seat in Puerto Rico, no really we just saw this -haha!
Order/Rules
Everything was just so orderly. If there were more than 2 people in a line at a store, another register opened up! If the roads had a little damage, they were being repaired. There are so many sidewalks and bike lanes! Once I sat down on a wall waiting for Britton to get something from concessions at a concert and was told to get off the wall -this would never happen in Puerto Rico! People obeyed all the traffic lights. I saw no one get into their car with an open beer. And the bathrooms. Let me tell you…they were impeccable even in the seediest of places. Every bathroom in Colorado had HOT running water, lights that worked, toilet seats, emptied trashcans, and there was toilet paper. There was always hand soap and often a sign reminding you to wash. Paper towels AND hand driers in case you wanted both! AMAZING bathrooms! haha I also did not see anyone peeing outside and I have gotten quite used to peeing in some of the most random places! It is so orderly there, that even at a parade was hardly any noise! It was like a parade on mute! People playing charade parade! No noise, no disruptions! Not even if you’re having a party. Where was the music, speakers and blaring sounds? After living on party island so long, this was very, very strange.
Alcohol was also strictly monitored and they even gave limits at the bar so as to not over-serve. Over-serving in Puerto Rico would mean spilling a drink! haha AND in Colorado there is pay-at-the-pump! Oh how I had forgotten about that! And the police in Colorado were like strict authority figures whereas in Puerto Rico, they are just like you and me and will even stop and have a chat with you and ask about your day. Overall, I was just taken aback at how obedient, fear-based and orderly everything was. I missed the fun chaos and randomness of life while I was there. It all seemed very planned, correct and straight in comparison to la isla.
I had forgotten how into guns people are in Colorado/America
Puerto Rico “sample” of a drink was a full-sized super strong mixed drink as we waited in line to check out
In PR I won a chance on the roulette wheel after buying some stuff and was told to just basically choose my prize (that would never happen in CO)
Buses full of people “chinchorreando” going bar to bar to party in Puerto Rico
Random thing to see on a roof of a house driving around in PR
And of course hammocks are everywhere instead of porch swings!
We saw so many friends and family!
What I was reminded the most about our trip back to Colorado was how much I miss my friends and family. We have met so many beautiful souls in Puerto Rico, but there is nothing like family and friendships that you’ve had since you were a kid. I also know that even though everyone is very friendly to us I will always be an outsider here in Puerto Rico and that makes life a little harder. Overall, I am so grateful for the experiences I have been given in both places that are so near and dear to me no matter how far I roam.
Colorado and Puerto Rico. We can make comparisons but they are both two places that will always hold pieces of my heart!
Ave María is a religious expression that is commonly used in Puerto Rico. It’s sort of like Ay, Caramba or Mother Mary please help us and in this case it’s: Really, there’s another hurricane headed right for us?!
Religion, science, camaraderie and legends all try to help us make sense out of the craziness that life throws at us it seems.
The projected path of Hurricane María could be anywhere in the red
After the last hurricane, we’ve decided not to move out of the wooden cabin to the concrete cabana for María. It’s actually far less windy in our little protected valley of the cabin. The worst part of Hurricane Irma wasn’t the hurricane, it was waiting for the power and water to come back. So we again got more gas for the generator and are again filling up the water cistern.
The stores are out of drinking water again. I asked a woman at the grocery store why they don’t just fill up their bottles from the last storm with tap or rain water like we are going to do. And she seemed a little confused. “Pues, las usamos y luego las botamos…Well, we use them and then throw them away!” Hmm. I guess I have a harder time just throwing stuff away, especially knowing how useful they are. It’s pretty simple to sanitize them!
Is it a coincidence that avocados are so abundant this time of year and guacamole is so easy to prepare even in a hurricane?
We also learned from the last storm that it is open game on junk food! Calories don’t count if you have to live without water, internet or electricity, right?! In Econo, not only was all the water gone, but also all of the Chef Boyardee, an apparent hurricane favorite!
In addition we heard a cool legend story that the Tainos (natives of the island before Columbus) apparently believed. Hopefully I don’t screw it up too much:
There were two twin brothers. One was named Yukiyu (which was later translated as Yunque the same a the national park near San Juan) and the other was Huracán. Yukiyu was the good god who cared for Borinken (the island of Puerto Rico) and all of its inhabitants and was especially present in the mountain areas. Huracán was the evil brother who was always jealous that the islands loved Yukiyu more and so he would try to come around nearly every year to destroy Yukiyu and his beloved ones. He and Yukiyu fight and most times Yukiyu wins. Therefore you must give thanks to him by being kind to the land. But this battle rages on to this day.
Some of our old wood is being repurposed as hurricane boards
Some people get really worked up about these storms and many others are pretty calm about it. You can tell who are the (calm and collected) veterans and who (ahem, lots of gringos) are the newbie scaredy-cats. We are trying not to be as freaked out about this one as the last even if the storm is super hyped. There is a real psychological screwiness to watching the models as they descend RIGHT OVER YOU! It makes even the calmest person get a little agitated.
In our neighborhood…hooking up a new generator and propane delivery
We are learning from our neighbors who have lived here their whole lives and have survived many tropical storms and hurricanes. We figure, they know much more than we do about living through a major storm. Some people are boarding up windows, but mainly just those with full glass fronts. We stopped and talked with Julio, our 86 year-old neighbor who must weigh about 100 lbs, and Berto who’s in his 50’s to see how they were doing for the storm. Berto said he was tying some things down with rope and that they better tie up Julio so he wouldn’t blow away! haha!
One neighbor is weaving plastic trash bags through the window to cut down on the water spray
I am trying my best to be calm because I know the odds and I know what we can do during and after. The storm seems to be moving north and losing some steam and the only real danger is directly in the eye. Anyway, there’s only so much you can do and the worst case scenario (afterward everything is ravaged and there’s no water or electricity for weeks and weeks), we just take a month-long (or longer) vacation to visit family in CO before dealing with the mess. Don’t sweat the small stuff as they say, and it’s all small stuff.
We’ve learned a lot throughout this very active hurricane season and feel even more connected with this land, people and culture by going through this. We are all in this together!
Also, just FYI, we were contacted by Channel 31 (which is also Channel 2 News) out of Denver last night and did a Facetime interview with them explaining our connection to Colorado and Puerto Rico and what we are going through with Irma and María. The segment should air sometime tonight around 9pm local Colorado time. Let us know if you see it!
Ave María, please be good to us! And Yukiyu, please convince Huracán to leave us unharmed (and preferably with power and water quickly too)!
An interesting part of living in Puerto Rico is that we are front and center of Caribbean geopolitics. A recent case in point was when we came upon a yola near Sandy Beach in Rincón. A yola is a small boat usually from the Dominican Republic that is used primarily to transport fleeing people who immigrate (illegally) to Puerto Rico and then potentially to the mainland US. Sometimes they are Haitians who have fled to DR and then from DR they come to PR. It is sort of a follow-the-money game where people leave the poorer country for the richer; much as many Puerto Ricans are leaving the island to the US proper for better job opportunities.
With a yola on the beach
These are fairly common sights, but this was the first time I saw one recently vacated. There was still clothing strewn about and the remnants of a small fire, probably the people who were waiting for them to arrive. They paint the boat blue and throw a blue tarp over top in order to blend in with the ocean and not be spotted. Sometimes people come over without any plan at all and just run through the jungle looking for water to drink and clothing to wear.
Eastern DR to West PR is less than 100 miles, but through pretty rough seas
I can only imagine the feeling of desperation there must be for someone to make the decision to leave everything they know and take a treacherous 2-3 day journey on a boat like this with nothing certain awaiting them! It reminded me of when we saw the stranded people out on Desecheo that didn’t quite make it to Rincón.
The motor was removed shortly after arriving and the side of the boat was cut (by police presumably) so that it would be harder to re-use
This was a successful journey for these Dominicans. It’s not always the case that all of them end up alive at the end of the trip.
Puerto Ricans call the whole country of the Dominican Republic Santo Domingo, not just the capital. And in terms of relations of Puerto Ricans with people from Santo Domingo, there is a tolerance, but also a sort of feeling of superiority due to the citizenship status and also wealth. While Puerto Rico is not rich by US standards, in comparison to a poor undocumented yola newcomer, any Boricua has it far better by most measures.
Here is a short video about the yola that washed up on shore.
