Category Archives: Tropical

Trip to Desecheo Island

For my birthday, I wanted to do something special. We don’t do a whole lot of gifts, but I do like to have special experiences. Desecheo was top of my list of explorations since moving to Puerto Rico.

Desecheo  is a small deserted island about 12-13 miles west of Rincón. It had once been a bombing range, like many of the uninhabitated islands that comprise Puerto Rico, but has since become a nature reserve. The Spanish verb “desechar” means to cast or throw out, so I imagine Desecheo as “Castaway Island.”

Desecheo island
Approaching Desecheo by boat

We have always been curious about Desecheo since it is the only landmass looking west from Rincón that one can see. The sun always sets near it to the left or right and it seemed to call to us to explore it. So we figured my birthday would be the best occasion to go out there and see it in a snorkeling adventure.

We booked our snorkeling tour with Taino Divers. There is no actual docking marina for boats in Rincón and so one person had to swim to the boat and bring it up to the beach where all of us tourists had to help load the boat with the dive materials. The boat ride was fairly slow but fun. It took us about 45 minutes to reach the island.

Birthday kiss
Britton giving me a  birthday kiss on the way out

Once we arrived we noticed two police boats and a helicopter chopping around the sky over the island. We learned that there were Dominican refugees on the island trying to illegally immigrate to Puerto Rico, but had only gotten as far as Desecheo. And while technically it is Puerto Rico, Desecheo is completely uninhabited and has no fresh water sources or even coconuts to survive on!

Other side of desecheo
While the west side of Desecheo is more verdant, it is still very desolate

Talk about castaway! They were stranded there and stuck in a survival situation. The police were just waiting them out until they were ready to give up and be deported. It was quite interesting and sad to think of the risk these people were in, searching for a better life. No yola had arrived for them to crash upon the beaches of Rincón. They were stranded and we were right in the middle of it, snorkeling the troubled waters. The guys at Taino said that they had seen it before with Haitians or Domincans on the island. All they wanted was water. They tried to help, but were prohibited from doing much. Many of the runs for the border turn into rescue missions.

Police boat
Police Boat talking with Taino Divers about the Domincans

Once it had been determined that the situation was stable, we were given the ok to go ahead and jump out and snorkel, but we were warned not to go onto dry land.

The snorkeling was fantastic! The visibility was about 40-50 feet down, though our little disposable water camera didn’t capture it very well. There were a couple of SCUBA divers as well and they said it was world-class. I swam with a sea turtle dashiing right between my fingers. Britton said I was down holding my breath so long that he was beginning to worry, but I was so caught up and mesmerized with the turtle. Fortunately, I have always been able to hold  my breath about 2 minutes and so I was fine.

Sea Turtle crop
Reaching for the turtle

We also saw some very healthy coral reefs and tons of fish. Crumbling some potato chips into the water brought up a lot of fish like these yellow fin snappers.

Yellowfin snapper
Yellow fin snappers

Britton SnorkelCassie Snorkel Monkey

Even though we got a little sea sick (me more than Britton), we had a great time on this day trip. If there is any criticism about it, I would say it was a bit expensive especially because they add a $20 per person “tax” to visit the island that is not included on their website. They also cut the trip shorter than advertised. We were supposed to return around 2pm, but we were done and driving home by 1pm. They also had no set “lunch” time and so very few people ate any of the pasta salad lunch that was included in the fee.

But overall the snorkeling was fantastic, the crew was knowledgeable and friendly and the Dominican situation added a striking reminder of our geo-political place in the world.

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Borinquen Beach Aguadilla

As part of a long, fun birthday weekend (which we will post more about soon) we will start at the end. One of my new friends shares my same birthday and she wanted to celebrate it at a new-to-me beach in Aguadilla they call Borinquen. It is near Wilderness Beach which we also have yet to check out, but is definitely on our list as well. (For those unfamiliar with Puerto Rico, Borinquen is the ancient native Taino word for the island.)

Golf courseDriving through the golf course to the beach

To access this beach one must drive through the Borinquen golf course which threw us off a little. The beach, like all beaches in Puerto Rico, is open to the public. This golf course/beach is very close to the BQN Aguadilla airport and is just gorgeous!

BQN beach PlaneAirplanes coming in low

The beach is nice, long and sandy with a sunset view. We talked and drank and snacked and overall enjoyed ourselves. Someone said it was a “Gidget Day” which I thought was a great name for it! 🙂

IMG_0640 IMG_0629 IMG_0628
The two birthday girls and fun with friends on the beach

IMG_0630Long sandy beach with hardly anyone but our group on it

There are some rock outcroppings in the sea that appear to just float there. We are going to try and put together a floating party near those rocks hopefully someday soon.

BQN Beach Sunset
Floating rocks and cliff face at sunset

We love Borinquen Beach and would highly recommend it for a beach party!

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The Wait is Over: Puerto Rico’s Summertime

Summer in Puerto Rico is a bit hotter and more humid than the rest of the year, but generally it feels pretty good to me. Of course, I have always liked the weather a bit on the hot side. When it gets too hot we go snorkeling or lay in the baby pool or take lots of showers. If it rains, everything gets cooled down quite a bit, but then the bugs come out. In fact, I would say that everything here seems to be waiting for the rains so that they can come out.

All the bugs, all the plants, and the animals. Even us. Everything has been waiting for the right moment to be in full bloom before it takes off with life. And sometimes nature acquiesces and it rains every day for an hour, three days in a row and then she becomes fickle and it doesn’t rain again for a week. But it has been enough for things to get the cue for their yearly debut.

Quenepas
Quenepas growing!

I was taking a look at one of the citrus trees when I felt a shake on the tree. Suddenly a lizard pops up. It is not unusual to find lots of gecko lizards all around, but this one was bright green. A baby iguana! I decided I would try and catch it. I had no idea whether or not they bit, but I thought I would try anyway. I aimed for the tail, and through my chicken and turkey catching (and mosquito and ant swatting) I have developed quicker Ninja reflexes.

I snatched him right off the branch upside down. He wiggled around a bit and Britton brought me a plant pot and we threw him in there. Unfortunately the pot had a rather large drain hole and he snuck out. Not 10 minutes later, though, at another area of the yard, I caught another one and we were able to take some pictures of him. I held him with a plastic bag because he was indeed trying to swing around and bite my fingers!

Baby Iguana (small)

We have read that iguanas lay and hatch about 50 eggs in a clutch and so they must have just hatched somewhere on or near our property because they are all over, if you can just see them through the greenery. I think iguana may indeed soon be a common dinner option around here. Especially with all the fruit and vegetables that we want to eat (and not feed to them)!

Quite a few trees and plants are bearing fruit already which is awesome. We have so many passionfruits (parchas) that the vine covering the other tree makes it look like we hung Christmas globe ornaments all over it.

Parcha vine
Parcha vine in a tree with a fruit

After picking some of the parcha, we laid them in the sun for them to yellow a bit more until they ripen fully.

Parcha line
A line of parchas

We have also noticed the breadfruit is fruiting as well as the quenepas. The guava tree is flowering and even our new lime tree is fruiting. And our everbearing starfruit tree continues to impress us with its abundance.

Guava Flower
Guava flowers!

Breadfruit
Breadfruit (we are not exactly sure the best time to pick them or the best way to cook them)

It has been pretty cool to be able to go outside every day of the year and interact in some way with nature. My dreams have become filled with plants and animals much more than the human dramas that filled them before.

Polish Hendrix(small)
The chickens and turkeys are doing great!

I feel much more connected to the food and the land. We have also become much more patient. Delayed gratification is a must when you wish to eat from the land, even if it is just a portion of your food. We had to become patient and wait for the chickens to grow to full size and now the hawks for the most part leave them alone. And now we wait for their eggs. We have to wait until the plants feel strong enough to fruit. We cannot rush anything along.

Even building the coops have helped to remind us of this. It would be much easier to simply buy new wood or a prefab shed rather than have to take down an existing structure, remove the nails, powerwash the wood, sort it, cut it to a new size and then reuse it. But it is much less wasteful and more resourceful to repurpose something and give it new life the way nature does every day in her cyclical way.

Britton has done a great job with all of these projects that he has built nearly completely himself without any outside help (besides me, when I am his assistant).

Coop site
Turkey coop base is coming along

So for the patient ones, the Puerto Rico summer has many gifts. The ocean is flat and full of fish and turtles, the roads are quieter (except for the Noche de San Juan which was one huge party!) and all the food -including iguana- has decided the time is ripe for the picking!

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Living in a Technicolor Dream

The dream begins like this: We snorkel.

steps(small)
Steps Beach

Snorkel. This sounds like an absurd word and it is! Absolutely and fantastically! The word that fits the absurdity of the action. Snorkel. We put on a viewing device over our eyes and nose and a breathing device tube that goes from our mouth just to the surface of the water as well as propulsion device fins that turn us into half merfolk. Once the transformation is complete, we are suddenly free to float about under water breathing normally and sometimes even kick and duck under to fully immerse in this wet weightlessness.

And what an experience! As I popped up bobbing for a moment and looked back at the tropical coastline trimmed with tall swaying coconut palms, vibrant blue skies and golden sand as the water joyfully bounced along, I just couldn’t believe how incredibly amazing this was. And that was outside the underwater realm!

Underneath, we followed schools of fish that were the colors of iridescence itself. We saw the proud orange elkhorn coral and the round brain coral. The light refracted from the sea’s surface so that shadows were lines of wiggling light on the sea floor. We saw a sneaky long-nosed fish and then we saw the most gorgeous creature: a sea turtle. We followed him along for a long time as he swam through the fish gliding along and occasionally popping up out of the water for a gulp of air. He didn’t seem to mind at all.

As we leave this underwater wonderland and shake the saltiness off as we taste it on our lips, we are greeted by these most glorious trees: the red flamboyan. The impressive rouge tinge imprints its name as it truly is: flamboyant!

Red Flamboyan

And as the dream continues, there are these gorgeous horses everywhere. Even regal horses towed along in their carriage instead of towing the carriage itself. It is quite possible these are unicorns on their way to coronation (or is is cornonation?).

Horse in truck

Then out of nowhere we find a fruit that looks mighty evil with spikes and an odd testicular shape but which are actually surprisingly sweet in a strange sort of way!

Angry Balls
Guanábana

And just as it seems the dreamworld is about to end, the sky shatters into a million shades of pink and purple before finally turning into a black velvet blanket speckled with diamond light and closes to the whistling noises of tiny tree frogs.

Sunset from deck Sunset over aguadilla
Sunset off the deck as the fog rolls in

Is this a dream directed by Wes Anderson? Or maybe it is a scene cut from the Wizard of Oz when Dorothy leaves the grey hues of Kansas for the Technicolor of Oz. As we doze off to the visions that sleep bring us each night I sometimes wonder which is truly the dream.

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