Tag Archives: Guajataca Tunnel

Wild Guajataca Adventure: Trip to Two Tunnels, Indian Head, Ermita and More


Tunel Negro…is so dark and quietly spooky!

We have been trying to get out at least once a week for an island exploration. And while we don’t mind going to some of our favorites, we LOVE finding new ones. We had been to the Guajataca Tunnel a long while ago, but we heard about another more challenging tunnel nearby called the Tunel Negro which means Black Tunnel. It is called this because it is long enough to become completely pitch black in the middle unlike the shorter and lighter Guajataca tunnel near the beach.


As we approached Tunel Negro

The trailhead was surprisingly easy to find (coming from Rincon it is just off the 2 on the right side before the lookout point which would be on the left). We were the only ones parked by an abandoned little kiosk and headed off down the trail. It was somewhat challenging mostly because of all the fallen trees that still were down since Maria I am guessing. Otherwise, it was flat and nice although we did need to watch for carrasco and other stinging plants a little. There were also some offshoot trails going up the mountain and down to the lake. We scrambled up a bit to see a lookout, but didn’t go too far. Maybe someday we can go all the way into the river. It looked beautiful from on high.


The lake down below

After that we also went to the other “easy” tunnel for a few pictures and also stopped by the Taino Indian Head. As we were headed back I saw a sign for Ermita San Antonio Historic Site so we took a quick detour there as well. Overall, it was a really fun and fulfilling day. Check out the video for the full adventure!


Taino Indian Head Monument on Highway 2 off Isabela

Monument to Cacicato de Mabodamaca

Mabodamaca was a chief (Cacique) of the Taino Indians (a subgroup of Caribbean Arawaks) that lived on the island of Boriken (the ancient name for the island of Puerto Rico). Chiefs had the privilege of wearing a golden pendant called a guani, which immediately distinguished him as the leader among the people. Local legend has it that during an ongoing battle with the Spanish invaders, Cacique Mabodamaca led his people up the Guajataca River and they disappeared into Puerto Rico’s central mountain range but along the way he lost his golden pendant and it remains embedded in the island forever as does the memory of his bravery.


On the path of the Guajataca Tunnel


On the drive in- What beauty peeking through these walls!


Some of the murals and artwork at Guajataca Tunnel have been updated


At the overlook stop where down below you can see the Guajataca Tunnel


Ermita San Antonio of the Antiguo Pueblo “Tuna”

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Guajataca Tunnel of Quebradillas

Yesterday, our electrician friend Papo had to finish up some work with our friends, and invited us all to spend the rest of the day with him. Our friends declined, but Britton and I were up for the adventure. We got a late start and it was a little rainy out but we decided to go for it anyway. At our friends’ house we ate pollo al carbon con yuca y escabeche (rotisserie chicken with cassava and green banana) with a side of pinchos (chicken skewers) and fresh fruit and we stopped for gas. The tanks were all full and so we were ready to hit the road.

Guagua
Papo and Britton with the truck

We loaded up into his large blue guagua and drove from Rincón to Quebradillas/Isabela listening to old Puerto Rican trio music and stopping occasionally for a beer or some ajonjoli (sesame) candies.


An example of Puerto Rican trio music

When we arrived it was a little before 6pm so we didn’t have a whole lot of time to explore. I definitely want to go back another time and see more of the area. The day was a little misty and the visibility wasn’t super great, but it sort of added to the post-apocalyptic feel of the place. Anything man-made looked run-down and falling apart. There were a couple loose dogs (satos) and some trash. Still it was a sort of spectacular find and I am surprised we hadn’t heard of it before.

Guajataca tunnel BK CKFirst we stopped at a look-out spot. Just behind our heads you can see the famous tunnel

Pasado Futuro
This apparently used to be a lively bar and restaurant. Now it looks like the scene from a sci-fi movie

The beach area was long and expansive, but there really wasn’t anyone there. Maybe during the weekends it fills up. The current looked strong and it was a bit rocky, so probably more of a beach hangout spot or possibly surfing rather than a swimming beach.

Beach Guajataca
Britton and Papo checking out the beach

We walked through the short tunnel that is dark enough to have bats flying around and a nice echo, but you could pretty much see the light the whole way through. Walking through there, you could feel a rich history of the place. Britton was just amazed at the amount of work it would have been to carve a tunnel and trench through this rock (his mind is always imagining himself doing the work -haha).

Guajataca tunnel
Guajataca Tunnel and friendly sato

I researched a little about this tunnel and learned that it was once part of the extensive railroad system in Puerto Rico and connected the town of Quebradillas with Isabela in order to better transport the sugar cane. I found this old photograph of it too.

tunel-guajataca-tunnel-puerto-rico
Guajataca Tunnel and rail system -courtesy of the Univ of PR

Spanish Wal Guajatacal
There was a long wall built along the cliffs -built by Spaniards like most of them? No sé

Britton on rock
And some impressive rock out-croppings

Cassie Guajataca
Climbing to the top of the spiky rocks offered some beautiful views of the water below

There looked to be a couple of cave entrances along the cliff face, but it was far too dark to begin exploring them. Maybe another day.

In true Papo fashion, we ended up at a billiards bar and I beat both Britton and Papo at each game (not due to my skill, but my ability to NOT scratch the 8 Ball as they both did! 😉 ) This little bar was another great movie scene complete with the tacky mirror advertisements and a juke box playing Marc Anthony, Maná, Gran Combo and lots of other Puerto Rican musicians I had never heard of. A perfect setting! We rounded out the evening with empanadillas and pizza at a road-side food truck. The tanks were filled again: My brain was full of new Spanish words and Puerto Rican sights, my belly was full of beer and roadside food and my heart was full of love and gratitude.

Pool Billiards
Rack ’em! They call them pequeñas y grandes instead of solids and stripes

I harken back to our day trips (Orocovis, Mar Chiquita, etc) with our friend Diosdado and am reminded and just so thankful for the hospitality of the people here. In Puerto Rico, it seems to me that if you are willing to hang out and have a good time, you won’t have any problem finding someone to do the same. Even in the middle of a Wednesday afternoon. You just have to be up for the adventure!

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